Grand Rosés

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The three uncork four very different wines that show how wide a spectrum of styles may be found to represent rosé wine. The first example, imported by Emily for her wine company in Berlin, is from north west Etna made by a young natural vigneronne. This is Gustinella, Jungimmune Rosato 2023, being a blend of all the local grapes. We comment on its freshness and tonic aspect.

Next a wine from the legendary natural winery Ligas in Pella, Greece, called Le Rosé, a wildly aromatic 100% Xinomavro with nothing added (2020 vintage). Two big guns are poured: the legendary Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva, Lopez de Heredia from the 2011 vintage, and a red-hued Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2020 from Emedio Pepe, the rarest of rare wine gems and a glorious expression of Montepulciano.

Whilst admiring these wines from all angles, we also wonder at what point calling a wine a rosé/rosado/rosato serves any useful purpose if they are so different from run-of-the-mill rosés. Certainly, all the wines being tasted illustrate that wonderful wines can be made by pushing the envelope in terms of farming, natural winemaking and ageing. Just don’t call them rosé. Or indeed, just call them rosé!

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